Duck a la'orange
Some History
This is an old but classic French dish that has probably become a little clichéd today. This is unfortunate as it is delicious. The dish was developed when the only oranges available in Europe were in fact sour oranges, such as the Seville. Sour oranges were introduced into Europe by Arabic people called Naranji in Arabic. There are records of sour oranges growing in Sicily over 1000 years ago and in southern Spain for nearly as long. Varieties of the sour orange (Citrus aurantium) have also long been grown in France (where it is called Bigarade), Portugal and Italy (where they grow a version called Bergamot - the oil of which is used to make Earl Grey tea). Apparently, sour oranges were also tried without success in the UK. Versions of duck a la orange using the Seville or sour orange can also be found in Italy and Spain
The combination of fruit and meat is very ancient as the acid in the fruit cuts through the fat of many meat dishes. Meat, even less than a hundred years ago came from older animals and birds that had laid down layers of fat. They could not afford, as we can today, to consume their animals before maturity. Even today in Morocco where they eat (and even prefer) mutton rather than lamb and older tougher fowl rather than 6 week old chickens, fruit is common as a cooking ingredient. All varieties of citrus are used including sour oranges and lemons (preserved lemons also), pomegranate, olives, quinces in many meat based dishes.
The original version of this dish used a whole duck which was roasted in the oven until tender, The duck was put aside to rest and the fat spooned off and saved of course - no waste. The roasting pan was then deglased using wine and /or vinegar with stock. Orange juice and sugar are added and a number of other ingredients depending on what recipe you read. Various writers recommend the addition of minced onion or shallots, herbs such as thyme, marjoram, parsley, tarragon or a combination of these. Some also include marmalade made with sour oranges and an orange based liqueur such as Grand Mariner or Cointreau (or Triple Sec). This liquid is then reduced to a desired consistency after which butter was added. The sauce was then poured over the duck that was cut into serving portions.
I have made duck a la orange this way using various ingredients for the sauce but it is a time consuming activity and a whole duck it not that easy to cook, you have to constantly watch it as some parts cook faster than others. Nowadays the vast majority of recipes you see recommend using duck breasts as it's faster and easier to cook.So the following recipe is one of the many I have tried using duck breasts.
Ingredients (for 2)
2 duck breasts - one for each person though as breasts vary allot in size so some maybe too large for one person and some too small for big eaters.
The Sauce
1/2 cup chicken or duck stock
1 cup orange juice and the grated rind (preferably Seville orange though this may be hard to get so use juice from Valencias
1 Seville Orange sliced into slivers
1 table spoon of vinegar or verjuice
1 or 2 Tablespoon of minced shallot (or spring onion)
1/2 Teaspoon of sumac (my addition)
1 tablespoon Seville marmalade
2 Tablespoons (or more if you like) of butter
Grand Mariner, Cointreau, Triple Sec or Orange liqueur to taste
Any herbs you may like (optional but not rosemary or too much thyme they are too strong I tried both - too bitter don't do it) )
maybe some sugar also depending on your taste
Method
Cooking the Breasts
I use a griddle based oven proof saucepan to fry the the duck breasts. Get the pan very hot on the stove add a little oil (not too much). Some people pierce the skin with a pointy knife, they say it allows the fat to drain. I don't, the fat comes out anyway. Rub the breast with a little salt and put them skin side down to fry. Cooking time depends upon the size of the breasts and how well you like them cooked, the French like them rare. After a few minutes see if the breasts have browned, if they have you can lit them with a spatula turn them over to cook on the other side. When browned you may need to pour off the fat as duck gives out allot of fat, but save the fat for another use. Place the breast in the pan in a pre-heated oven 200 degrees Centigrade for no more than 10 minutes and maybe less if they are small, after this take them out of the oven, remove from the pan and allow to rest in a warm spot on a warm plate. Now you can make the sauce.
The Sauce
Pour the fat off the pan in which you cooked the breasts and place it on the stove to heat. Deglase the pan with the stock, orange juice, vinegar, and whatever liqueur you choose. Add the minced shallot, orange rind, sumac and marmalade any herbs you like and a little sugar if you wish and reduce the sauce by maybe half. Keep whisking to melt the marmalade. When reduced to your liking, add the (cold) butter and keep whisking (don't stop) until fully blended and take off the heat immediately,
Serving
Slice the breasts with a sharp knife on the diagonal, place each sliced breast on a heated plate, maybe with root vegetables such as carrots or potatoes. Pour some of the sauce over the breasts and pour the rest in a sauce jug and take to the table. Delicious I assure you.
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